I had a chipboard with wood veneer sheet that would do for the
baseboard. I had well-seasoned marine ply that would make good
mounting brackets and I had soft pine batten for miscellaneous mounting
duties.
I could cut a square steel plate for the Y axis moveable bed from the
case of the afore-mentioned Viglen Genie. I wanted it to be 20.0
by 20.0 cm because that would give the drill a reach of 10.0 cm on
either side of the midpoint. Then the question of how to support
this plate arose. I looked at smooth sliding rods but I couldn't
come up with something cheap enough or something I thought I could get
to work. Then I found the "DryLin N Low Profile Linear Guide" on
the
RS Components web site. The
bottom
of the range version is a 30.0 cm long aluminium rail with mounting
holes. Into this rail are inserted 2.0 cm long carriages onto
which can be mounted things like plates. So I decided on two
rails and four carriages. This was the most expensive piece of
the project at the time but I thought it would give me maximum chance
of success. The parallel rails would not only keep the plate in
line but would also prevent any movement in the Z axis. With two
carriages inserted into each rail, the plate should essentially be
self-aligning. The other advantage of the DryLin system is in its
name - they don't require any lubrication. The problem with
lubricating surfaces in a project like this is that drill shavings
stick to the lubricant if it's something like oil.
Here's a picture of the plate with the mounting positions of the four
carriages, the four holes to mount a wooden plate on top of the steel
one and the mounting position of the central nuts which would attach
the plate to the threaded rod:
Now the question arose of how I was going to accurately make all the
parts to sufficent tolerances that would allow this machine to
function. If I had a drilling machine, I wouldn't need to build
this in the first place. Then I realised that I did have a high
precision piece of equipment that would do the job - my new Canon PIXMA
iP1000 printer that I bought to replace my Stylus Color. The QCad
program could print the designs with 1:1 scaling and all I had to do
was cut them out and glue them to the pieces I was trying to measure
and cut. The external shape of most of the pieces wouldn't be
that crucial - it was the relative positions of the internal mounting
points that really mattered.
I had a plan. If the Y axis didn't work then there would be no
point in trying to build the Z or X axes. I ordered the DryLin
Linear Guides from RS Components and the remainder of the electronic
and mechanical parts from
Farnell.
Normally I would use
Maplin but
I could only get certain components from Farnell and they have a
minimum order amount of £20 which I couldn't otherwise meet.
Time to start construction...